APPLICATION

KEY POINTS

Always work from right to left

Clean your work area after each stage

Check your client is happy

A basic check over of the hands should be done when sanitising your clients hands. Checking for any contraindications that will affect the treatment.

Do your consultation at the same time.

KEY WORDS

WRINKLING

Wrinkling will occur when the product is applied to thick and will not cure properly in the lamp causing a wrinkling effect.

SHRINKING

Shrinking is the cause of an uncapped nail or base coat which does not cover the entire nail. The product will shrink back away from the edges and free edge when cured.

UNDER CURED

Polish that has not been placed in the lamp for long enough or does not sit in the correct place may under cure. Extra attention may want to be paid to your clients thumbs if the lay very flat.

You cannot over cure.

FLOATING

5 stroke method to be used on topcoat.

DRAGGING OR SPLAYING BRUSH HEAD

When applying your base and colour coats this needs to done very thin so dragging your brush to splay the bristles will help to remove any excess product.

SMILE LINE

This is the line created to define the free edge or “white tip”

5 STROKE METHOD

Remove any access product from your brush to begin.

  1. Starting in the centre of the nail drag your brush down the free edge of the nail plate, using your hands as an anchor.
  2. Place the brush 2-3mm from the cuticle and bounce the product up towards the cuticle ensuring you do not touch the skin, and drag down.
  3. Repeat this technique on the left hand side applying product to your brush as required whist ensuring the product is applied thinly.
  4. Repeat then on the right side.
  5. Finally cap the end of the clients nail free edge with product.

FLOATING TECHNIQUE

Floating should only be used on a top coat.

Floating is the same method as the 5 stroke but with a lighter method, not dragging or spaying the brush to remove product but allowing the brush to hold the product and float over the nail.

GEL POLISH APPLICATION – ONE COLOUR

Preparation – Stage one

  • Wash your own hands to start and use a sanitising spray to spray over your hands and the clients.
  • Examine the clients Hands and nails.
  • Working from right to left
  • Remove any existing Nail Polish.
  • Gently push back cuticles. Ensuring no skin and non-living tissue remains on the nail plate. Gently lifting any eponychium from the nail plate.
  • Trim and File the nails to the clients preferred Shape and length.
  • Gently buff the nail plate with a buffing block or 240 grit file to stimulate blood, removing surface shine, paying extra attention to cuticle area and side walls.
  • Wipe over the nails and hands ensuring all dust particles have been removed.
  • Now wipe over the nail plate with isopropyl alcohol or acetone to dehydrate and clean.
  • Clean your work area

Application – Stage two

  • Working from left to right.
  • Apply a thin layer of base coat basecoat on each nail on the left hand using the 5 stroke method and place in the UV or led lamp for recommended curing time (30-60 SECONDS)
  • Repeat on the right hand.
  • Apply two thin layers of coloured gel polish, curing between each layer. Working on the left hand and then the right. Follow the 5 stroke method.
  • Finish with a topcoat. Using the floating technique.
  • Repeat on both hands.
  • Allow to cool for 30 secs once out from the lamp.
  • Apply cuticle oil to complete treatment.
  • Clean your work area

GEL POLISH APPLICATION – FRENCH MANICURE

Application

  • Start preparation – stage one
  • Discuss with your client their preference to shape of their “white tip”
  • Working from left to right.
  • Apply a thin layer of base coat basecoat on each nail on the left hand using the 5 stroke method and place in the UV or led lamp for recommended curing time (30-60 SECONDS).
  • Repeat on the right hand.
  • Apply one thin layer of natural coloured gel polish, and cure. Working on the left hand and then the right. Follow the 5 stroke method.
  • Create your white tip shape with polish cleaning up your smile line if required. Alternatively the smile line and be created with a nail art brush.
  • Repeat on left hand.
  • Two coats may be required.
  • Apply a sheer natural colour coat to create look.
  • Repeat on left hand.
  • Finish with a topcoat. Using the floating technique.
  • Repeat on both hands.
  • Allow to cool for 30 secs once out from the lamp.
  • Apply cuticle oil to complete treatment.
  • Clean your work area

REMOVAL

KEY POINTS

Always work from right to left

Clean your work area after each stage

Whether you are taking off a full set of nails or just one the process will be the same.

A basic check over of the hands should be done when sanitising your clients hands. Checking for any condra indications that will affect the treatment.

Do your consultation at the same time.

  • Working from right to left
  • File over the whole area of polish to remove any top coat and expose the bare colour.
  • Working from right to left.
  • Saturate coon wool in acetone place over each finger and use nail clips or wrap each fingertip in small pieces of foil.
  • The soaking process has lots of variables but generally remove the wraps after 10-15 mins and use an orange wood stick or cuticle pusher to gently scrape away the gel polish. This should be done down towards the free edge not up towards the cuticle.
  • Gently buff the nails to loosen any remnants of gel polish and repeat the process is necessary. Glitter polish or any additives may make longer to soak off.
  • Gently push back cuticles.
  • Gently buff over nail plate, paying extra attention to ensure all of the polish has been removed.
  • Dust down the hands and sanitise again.
  • Now wipe over the nails with isopropyl alcohol or acetone.
  • Clean work area
  • Apply cuticle oil and gently massage in, whist giving the client their after Care advice.
  • If they are there for a reapplication or another nail service do not use cuticle oil until all treatments are finished.

AFTERCARE ADVICE

Aftercare advice is an especially important part of the treatment, in order for the client to get full benefits from their service. Always give your client the following advice:

  • Wear Rubber Gloves when cleaning and washing up. These activities are the most common causes of infections.
  • Wear gloves when doing Gardening or household chores.
  • Dry hands properly after washing and apply a hand cream or cuticle oil.
  • Do not use the fingernails as tools.
  • Advise on appropriate after care products.